From time to time and sooner or later, virtually all of us can benefit from the use of a quality cane.  In some situations, it's downright necessary. In other situations, it's just nice. 

The "what" and "why" about canes is extremely simple.

• Length is generally from the crease in your wrist to the floor.
• A cane is generally held in the hand opposite the side you are trying to help.
• Canes (aka "walking sticks") have historic and continued uses for; mobility, security, function, ceremony and costume

The "how" about my canes is not as simple as it could be.  I build them in a fairly meticulous manner.  If I'm not really pleased with the way one turns out, it gets destroyed. 

The staffs are made from structurally strong, hardwoods.  For example, maple, ash, or jatoba.  The handles are normally a sandwich of different hardwoods, for example; American Black Walnut on the outside, with American Cherry in the middle.  I like walnut  from a burl, so the grain is wild.  I think it looks better than straight grain on such a short piece of stock.  But I also use burl wood becasue the crazy grain provides more multidirectional strength. 

To make the handle even more resilient, I orient the wood grain such that one is perpendicular to the prevailing grain direction of the other. The staff is cut to create a through tenon, extending all the way to the top of the handle.  It has wide shoulder upon which the handle rests.  That should keep it from loosening or wiggling. 

I split out straight grained wood into staves.  I use a drawknife to get it down to the rough dimensions.  Handplanes straighten things up and true the stock, a rasp lets me carve the handle curves.  Chisels and gouges refine things.  Handsaws and chisels cut all the joinery.  The tool that does the vast majority of the work is a spokeshave.  I have three types that all come into play.  Really simple and pleasant hand tools to use. 

One area where I embrace more modern technology is the chemicals.  The assembly is glued together with modern adhesives.  I want you to be confident that the joints will hold, regardless of hot, cold, drops, wet, etc..  I hand sand everything down to 320 grit.  Personally, I like the open grain look of the certain woods, like Oak and Walnut.  So I don't use any filler.  It affords a better grip than something perfectly slick. 

Normally I finish my canes with several coats of danish oil, handrubbed to give the wood depth.  Then I put three coats of clear, hand-rubbed laquer (semi-gloss) as a top coat to protect it.   You could wax it.  But I would not because there will likely be a time when you want to refinish it and then the wax will need to be removed.  When that time comes, get a spray can of "Deft" semi-gloss.  Your hardware store will have it.  That and some 0000 steel wool will allow you to bring it right back to like-new condition.

As for the rubber tip, I just get them at Walgreens.  I normally size the tip for 3/4" rubber tips. 

Often, I have custom lenght or strength requests.  I can build to any length and normally error on the long side.  I make them about a quarter inch long on purpose.  My thought is that you can try it and cut it down much more easily than stretching it out.  I leave enough room that you can shorten the staff a half inch or so.